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R & R in Tehran

Halfway Point

Wednesday 3-12-64 to Monday 7-12-64

In and around Tehran, mostly in - First few days I was sick with diarrhoea. I’m sure it was those pickles on the train. I can’t look at or think of pickled vegetables now without feeling sick. Farshid’s mother is in Abadan on holiday so we have lunch at snack bars and eat at a local student hostel. We usually meet Farshid outside the university when his lectures have finished. We have walked for miles around this city, and taken taxis and buses for many miles more. We have done the rounds for visas, browsed through bookshops, seen Olivier’s film of Richard III at the British Council, been to the Tourist Office, Police, Post Office, bank, money changers, etc. etc.. We have had a beautiful vanilla slice and a bottle of beer at the Naderi Hotel. We know our way around now and the names of the various avenues. We have generally had a good time, and have been leading a more or less normal city life for a change, even if our feet have not. I love ice cream and have one every chance. After I recovered fully from the runs, I found that I was really enjoying life here. Homesick for a few days, especially on my birthday, but I pulled myself out of that. It was wonderful to receive a letter from home, with a bank draft for eleven pounds ten shillings Sterling. Also found the air mattress waiting for me at the airport. Things turned out really well, timing and all. The morning we arrived was wonderful; full of surprises and good things. My actual birthday was miserable, I was sick all day, but I celebrated it yesterday by not worrying about expense and taking Ade and Farshid to dinner at a very smart restaurant overlooking very smart Upper Pahlavi Avenue, tree lined and looking very atmospheric in the light shed from the neon, which covers the facades of many buildings, particularly the cinemas.

Afterwards we went to see Cleopatra, which was generally as poor as I expected. Rex Harrison was excellent - a truly fine actor. Liz and Burton were passably poor. Came back to the house satisfied. For once, what I spent did not worry me. Farshid’s mother arrived home last night and the change in the house is amazing. It has become a home. Everything is neat and comfortable, we are getting good meals and are feeling great. She presented us with a box of nougat from Isfahan. They call it Gaz and it has pistachio nuts in it - beautiful taste. We will see the palaces etc. tomorrow, may stay another day, and then leave on Thursday.

Well I am 20 years old and I am different. No more fooling about, I have not the time. Get to London, get down to work and make something of myself.

Tuesday 8-12-64

Today was a public holiday here in Tehran so we slept in until 11.30. It is the birthday of the Moslems’ 3rd Imam (they had 12). Lunched, then took a few photos this afternoon in the city. I have been feeling elated today after an extremely good conversation with Farshid’s father last night. I have finally taken my boots to be repaired, but it will cost me 250 Rials. I think it will be worth it though. Farshid wants us to stay until Saturday, but we are well rested now and I would like to be in Beirut for Christmas, which is getting very close. Mum’s birthday is only a few days away, and I still have not posted her letter.

Wednesday 9-12-64 to Friday 11-12-64

Still in Tehran - Got my boots back, and they did an excellent job on them. We have changed our minds about being in Beirut for Christmas and have decided to see Jordan first, so we will probably be in Jerusalem for Christmas. We fixed up the rest of our business here and have bought our bus tickets to Isfahan tomorrow, Saturday. We have had such a wonderful 10 days here in Tehran that I will be extremely sorry to leave tomorrow. I guess that readjustment to the rigours of the road will be difficult, but it must be done. Farshid’s mother gave us two big bags of pistachio nuts, and more soap and toothpaste than we can ever hope to use between here and London. Our bags are packed, so tomorrow we are off. Mum’s birthday today, have sent her card.

Posted by Ozac 05:08 Archived in Iran Tagged tehran

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